As Villa Next Door 2 has reached its maximum of 3 GB it will stop here, but i will continue in a new blog called Villa Next Door 3 (you guessed it!). Click here to go to Villa Next Door 3 (and don’t forget to renew your subscription there!!).
As I’ve written quite extensively about the exhibition in VLR, I leave you here with some impressions of the show, but not without the strong recommendation to visit it yourself.
THIS IS PART 2 OF 2 ABOUT SIX FRISIAN MEDIEVAL CHURCHES SEEN DURING MY HOLIDAYS. CLICK HERE TO SEE PART 1
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. Late Gothic church on a late Iron Age terp. Most features are probably 16th century, with many additions from the 18th and 19th centuries. However there must have been a much older church as tuff (used until the beginning of the 13th century) was found in the choir under its 19th century outer walls.
During and after the Iconoclasms of the 16th century church buildings were often kept intact, as the protestants also needed a place to worship. Quite a few of these churches in the north were built on so-called “terps”, mounds built against the unpredictable sea. Frisians eked out a living in an environment prone to floods and these terps were already built in times long gone, so to many Frisians they were a common and precious feature in their landscape. They were places of safety and salvation. Churches were built on top of them. Originally they were of course built with clay and wood.
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. West entrance and window.
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. Bell tower from the west. By the time we were there a peregrine falcon was hibernating in the spire. There was a birdwatcher granting us a look through his telescope at the bird which was watching us anxiously and surveying the flat wintery Frisian landscape. At the moment this picture was taken the falcon was flying around, probably looking for some fat pigeons.
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. The nave from the south. The different building and masonry can clearly be seen, especially the difference between the 19th century and earlier masonry.
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. The nave from the north with, again, a mixture of different styles.
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. We were given access to the church spontaneously by the hospitable sexton, who saw us walking around the building. This is the interior to the west, with the organ, built in 1877.
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. The interior to the east.
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. Tombstone in the church.
Petruskerk (St Peter’s Church), Wanswerd/Wânswert. Tombstone in the church.
But the local monks fostered new technologies for agriculture and for building. Around the year 1000 and afterwards many stone churches were built, like in the rest of western Europe. The international style then was the Romanesque with its sturdy, robust walls and small round-arched windows. There were of course no rocks in Friesland to hew stones from, and the technique of making bricks was lost centuries ago, so building stones had to be shipped from as far afield as the Eifel in Germany. The oldest churches still have masonry with these stones. Good examples amongst the six churches we visited are the ones in Genum/Ginnum and especially the very old one in Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. Seen from the northwest. 13th century nave with 18th century buttresses, 12th century chapel, tower beginning 19th century.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. Northwest view with very clear differences in the masonry of the chapel (12th-13th century), the nave (13th century), buttresses (18th century) and bell tower (19th century).
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. Nave from the north. On top of the windows you can see probably re-used tuff. The whole façade in fact gives an idea of the long building history of the church.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. Façade of the originally 12th century north chapel. However the window is clearly gothic, while the differences in masonry also tell a quite long story.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. North chapel seen from the northeast.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. The 19th century choir with older traces.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. The church from the south. The 15th century south chapel was later re-used as a protestant consistory.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. The nave from the south.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. Again the local sexton gave us free admission to the church. This is the interior looking west. On the left the 1773 pulpit and on the right the 17th century “herenbanken” (seats for the local gentry).
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. Interior to the east
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. Interior to the north with the north chapel.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. 19th century organ.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. One of the many tombstones in the church.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. One of the many tombstones in the church.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. One of the many tombstones in the church.
Grote kerk (Great Church) or Sint-Maartenkerk (St Martin’s Church), Hallum. One of the many tombstones in the church. This one with a beautiful 16th century perspective relief.
When brick making was reintroduced in the Low Countries at the beginning of the 13th century, the Gothic style had already replaced the Romanesque in more southern parts of Europe from the middle of the 12th century onwards. The Gothic had bigger, pointed-arched windows and more refined and elegant building techniques and as such it was more able to represent the glory of the creed (and those in power). For that last aspect there was probably not much interest amongst the Frisians in the countryside. The Gothic became only fashionable up north in the 13th century. It was used in a very practical way to allow more daylight in the church, to make some new architectural decorations and to enlarge the existing smallish and dark Romanesque buildings.
Church, Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum. This church sits on the highest terp of Netherlands and Germany. The terp itself was probably built in the Roman Iron Age. It was dug out for its fertile soil, which caused many problems to the church and churchyard. It is now supported by an impressive concrete structure. The church itself is very old indeed, built in the 11th or 12th century.
Church, Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum. Apse. The church was originally Romanesque and built with tuff. However, like in any other old structure, things were changed through the centuries. The apse was raised in the 16th century and the small Romanesque windows were replaced by Gothic pointed arch windows.
Church, Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum. In the north wall of the nave you can still see traces of the smaller Romanesque windows. Around the first quarter of the 13th century the building was extended westwards, as you can see here.
Church, Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum.
Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum. Western part of the southern façade where you can see different styles: Romanesque, Romano-Gothic and Gothic, partly in the western extension of the church.
Church, Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum. Eastern part of the south façade, a tuff wall with Gothic windows.
Church, Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum. Seen from the southeast. The bell tower was renewed in the 18th century with masonry of that era.
Characteristic of the village churches in the two northern provinces throughout the ages are the gable roofs (instead of pointed spires) on the bell towers. It gives them a particularly robust character that didn’t really fit in very well with the Gothic or any other later style. Of the six churches we visited, only one – St Martin’s in Hallum – has a pointed spire, which is an early 19th century replacement of a once gable-roofed bell tower. And there is of course the small church at Janum/Jannum which has no bell tower at all, but a hanging belfry with one bell. It was interesting – just as interesting as any big Gothic cathedral – to see these old structures in their modern day context; sometimes on terps and surrounded by houses and trees they stand out as landmarks in the very flat and agricultural Frisian landscape. Which makes a trip to that part of the province all the more worth it.
Church, Hogebeintum/Hegebeintum. Seen from the northeast.
Mariakerk (St Mary’s Church), Oenkerk/Oentsjerk. 13th century nave, 14th century bell tower with 17th century gable roof and sheathing, 19th century apse.
THIS IS PART 1 OF 2 ABOUT SIX FRISIAN MEDIEVAL CHURCHES SEEN DURING MY HOLIDAYS. CLICK HERE TO SEE PART 2.
As some readers may know i have a keen interest in European art and architecture made and built before 1600. Especially the so-called Middle Ages are interesting. They are dated usually from about 500 to 1500, but for the Low Countries it would be stylistically more appropriate to let the Middle Ages end in 1566 with the Iconoclasm starting that year. That definitely brought a radical end to Gothic art (which was already being replaced by the more fashionable Renaissance style in the cities). Church interiors old and new were torn down, sculptures and paintings were destroyed, frescos were covered with whitewash, and later on abbeys were confiscated and torn down, erasing a long social, aesthetic and religious history.
Mariakerk (St Mary’s Church), Oenkerk/Oentsjerk.
Mariakerk (St Mary’s Church), Oenkerk/Oentsjerk. South façade. Originally the church had a transept of which you can still see traces in the south and north walls of the nave. The apse (on the right) was partly rebuilt with original bricks.
Mariakerk (St Mary’s Church), Oenkerk/Oentsjerk. West façade, with 17th century restorations.
Mariakerk (St Mary’s Church), Oenkerk/Oentsjerk. South façade.
Mariakerk (St Mary’s Church), Oenkerk/Oentsjerk. With traces of the north transept and a Romanesque window.
Mariakerk (St Mary’s Church), Oenkerk/Oentsjerk. From the north.
In fact this was the end of a long development starting with legalising Christianity and incorporating it into the Roman Empire by Constantine the Great in the 4th century. After that the Roman Catholic Church became powerful and even omnipotent in Western Europe, with the Popes in Rome becoming princes as powerful, greedy and corrupt as any other secular king. Conservatism, oppression, corruption and religious opportunism led to social and political unrest, and in the end it led to the Protestant Reformation of which the Dutch Iconoclasm was a result. In spite of that devastating Iconoclasm there are still tangible remnants of the Middle Ages in what is now called the Netherlands. The Dutch Middle Ages are of particular interest because the country as a political entity didn’t yet exist.
Church, Janum/Jannum. Romano-Gothic church, late 13th / early 14th century, choir 13th century, roof and belfry16th century. It was built on a pre-historic terp (a man made mound built to keep dry feet during floods) which was partly dug down in the 19th century. Today it houses a small museum (which we couldn’t visit because of the Covid lockdown).
Church, Janum/Jannum. Western façade with belfry, and nave.
Church, Janum/Jannum. Belfry with church bell made in 1489
Church, Janum/Jannum. Western façade. The bead profiles of the windows are characteristic of the 13th century Romano-Gothic in northern churches.
Church, Janum/Jannum. Nave, north façade.
Church, Janum/Jannum. Choir. Before WWII the church was in a very bad state. During the War it was restored, which gave the workers the advantage of not being deported to Germany for compulsory labour. Although the restoration work was obviously carried out quite meticulously, the masonry of the choir looks almost new.
Church, Janum/Jannum. The nave from the south.
Church, Janum/Jannum.
In medieval times the Low Countries were a collection of dukedoms, counties and bishoprics, spreading from modern day northern France to the North Sea, trading with each other as often as fighting with each other, often at war with or taken over by more powerful neighbours, but generally behaving quite independently. The present day Dutch are only interested in their Medieval heritage because it is all very old and still there, but they cannot take pride in it because there is no national Dutch heroism in it. Generally there is the idea that Medieval society was barbaric and intolerant. That ignores the fact that the Middle Ages were a long development of civilisation with both its shiny pages of enlightenment and its dark pages of barbarism, traces of which are still visible in the present. Amongst the oldest architectural remnants in the present day Netherlands are village churches in the two northern provinces Groningen and Friesland.
Church, Genum/Ginnum. From the south. Romanesque church, partly 12th century, enlarged 13th century, bell tower and apse 15th century. It was built on an Iron Age terp. Today it is used as artist’s studios.
Church, Genum/Ginnum.
Church, Genum/Ginnum.
Church, Genum/Ginnum. The northern part of the nave is the oldest part of the church. It has Romanesque decorations built in grey tuff. Tuff, a kind of volcanic stone, was imported from Germany. The technique of making bricks was lost since the Romans left the Low Countries, and it was only re-invented by the beginning of the 13th century. Although Frisian monks already knew in the 12th century how to make bricks, through their contacts with Italian abbeys, the Frisian sea clay was very difficult to work with and imported tuff was still preferred. So, even in Friesland and Groningen the use of bricks gives an indication of the time a church was built.
Church, Genum/Ginnum. Detail of the decoration. Traces of what was probably the entrance to a sacristy can still be seen.
Church, Genum/Ginnum. Detail of the decoration.
Church, Genum/Ginnum. North façade with a clear difference between the tuff masonry (left) and the later clay brick masonry (right).
Church, Genum/Ginnum. Western Romano-Gothic window.
Church, Genum/Ginnum. Bell tower.
During the week before Christmas i was on a family visit in a village northeast of the Frisian capital Leeuwarden/Ljouwert. It was a much wished for relaxed and worry-free holiday with loved ones i only see a very few times a year (or hardly at all under corona circumstances). The new Covid lockdown barred us from any visit to a museum, but then the Frisian countryside is as much an open air museum as any place could be. It is a museum of the present, of modernism, of nature, of agriculture, of geography and….. of Medieval times. So we took the opportunity to see some of these old Medieval churches.
There is only one big purpose in nature: staying alive at all cost, even if the time span of life itself may vary from just a few hours to more than a millennium.
The main methods nature uses seem to be coincidence and chance. Everything around us happens to be as it is.
Mind you, if evolution had – again, by chance – taken another route, forced by circumstances, we might have looked and felt quite differently (or we might not have existed at all).
In fact nature’s toolbox gives almost infinite possibilities and variations of how we, living beings, look like and what attracts and repels us to make us mentally function in life.
As human beings we can even play a bit with that toolbox and with artificial materials. Peter Zwaan (1968) makes works that give you an idea of evolution-gone-wrong.
Paper becoming skin, beer cans growing skin with birthmarks and hair or the idea of fish fingers taken quite literally, Zwaan makes it all and shows it in a retrospective at HOK Gallery.
Especially on a hot summer day in the tiny gallery – of barely 120 square feet –, you may doubt if you smell your own sweat or that of Zwaan’s works.
Zwaan takes the fun quite seriously which makes his works both attractive and repulsive.
After seeing Zwaan’s work, drinking from a beer can won’t be the same experience anymore.
The show also proves that a retrospective doesn’t necessarily need a lot of space and hundreds of works.
Also in that respect HOK gallery and Zwaan have succeeded in making a good and imaginative show.
As you may have noticed, reporting in Villa Next Door has become less frequent. That has two main reasons. The first is that i’m concentrating more on writing (in Dutch) these days, as i feel not enough is written about art. Writing, to me, has proven to be a more creative process. Alternating with viewing art it deepens my understanding of what i see, and not just in art. I hope, of course, that reading will stimulate the same process with you. However, writing costs time. The second reason is that reporting by camera about exhibitions in (and sometimes outside) The Hague is one thing, but Villa Next Door is a one man’s business. I must admit it’s nice to show on a blog something of my excitement while seeing exhibitions, but processing all the pictures for Villa Next Door is, although a critical, not a very creative process, which, even so, costs a lot of time. So there will be less Villa Next Door and more Villa La Repubblica the coming time. I apologise to my non-Dutch readers for that. The good news is that Villa Next Door will be continued though less regularly and, as to the artists and gallerists, even less democratically.
In spite of its small space it always featured very diverse artists, always well presented and with much dedication and devotion to both content and aesthetics and to both artists and viewers.
Rutger van der Tas
Sam Lock
I’m sure i won’t be the only one who’s going to miss that.
Sam Lock
Saskia Tannemaat
However, Twelve twelve’s Silvia Bakker is still young and full of good ideas, so i am sure we can regard the gallery as just a stepping stone to a next level.
Saskia Tannemaat
Tamara Dees
A big thank you to Silvia and to the artists whose work she presented in the gallery!